3. Choose the right rod length

The distance you can cast with a given line weight depends upon your ability to generate maximum line speed within a fairly abbreviated arc of rod movement (covered later in this Guide). You need sufficient rod length to generate tip speed but, beyond a certain point, length becomes a hindrance. Longer rods have more leverage working against your wrist and arm muscles and take more effort to speed up and -more importantly- to stop quickly in the right place. The longer the rod, the more likely you are to get tired and open up the essential casting arc. A wide casting arc creates a poor backcast which, in turn, greatly hinders the ability to make a good forward cast. Once this happens, casters instinctively (but wrongly) try to increase their effort instead of correcting the fault.

Modern carbon fly rods are very light, so it is length (leverage) not rod weight that determines what the angler can manage. Children and small women will probably find it easier to learn with fly rods (single-handed) of 7.5 - 8.5 feet and line weights of # 5-6. Normally built chaps can usually manage rods of up to 9.5 feet with a #7 weight line quite comfortably. Rods over 10 feet (especially with heavier line weights) require more strength and are tiring to use.

Rod fittings

A fly rod’s fittings are simple enough and they don’t actually vary much from rod to rod: a cork handle; a fitting on which to attach the reel and a set of rod rings (line guides). Poor quality rings wear quickly and eventually become grooved. Not only does this increase friction and reduce the amount of line that can be shot (i.e., casting distance) but, in the worst cases, a ‘honed’ rod ring can literally destroy a fly line in one cast. I have tried most types and find little demonstrable difference between them. Hard-chromed wire snake rings still get my vote based on weight versus strength. Butt rings tend to suffer the most wear and tear, so there is a case for these to be ceramic-lined.